My name is Emir, one of Joan’s make-up artists, and she asked me to share with you some of my beauty tips.
Before we get started with our make-up application, I’ll let you in on a great trade secret to getting a quick face lift called Years Away
. All of the celebs that I work with absolutely love this secret beauty weapon! It consists of a set of tapes that adhere to the sides of your face (behind hairline) and connect with an adjustable cord that goes around the back of your head, hiding under your hair. Nobody knows you are wearing them, but everyone will say “You look great, like you got a facelift.”
You start by applying the Years Away
tapes to each side of your head just behind your hairline, above the ears. You can also apply them behind ears to tighten the skin on your neck if you have long hair to them. Then you attach the Years Away - Ears Bands
to each tape and connect them at the back of your head. You can tighten the bands as much as you like, just not too tight, for you want to look natural. I advise that you put on your Years Away
tapes before you apply your moisturizer too make sure you don’t handle the tapes with moisturizer on your hands – you want the tapes to be sticky so they will adhere and hold. Also, make sure when you apply your moisturizer not to get it near the tapes, for it might loosen them up and they will not hold as tight to give you that instant lift that you desire. The number to call for Years Away
Now let’s talk about how to make your face look as beautiful as possible. Whether or not you wear make-up you should always start and finish your day cleansing your face and applying moisturizer.
After applying light moisturizer on the face and eye cream around the eyes, proceed with a primer on top of moisturizer (I use on from Sephora on Joan’s face). This will help your makeup from getting absorbed into your skin and it will last longer.
The secret to applying your foundation or tinted moisturizer (I use one by Stila) is never to rub it on too hard. Apply foundation or tinted moisturizer on large areas of your face, cheeks and forehead. Blend it towards hairline, and don’t forget your neck. Make sure to blend it into your neck and chest area to avoid demarcation line.
I like to mix foundation with a little sun gel (I use one by Stila) depending on the desired shade to give some color and some extra glow to your skin. Sun gel will stain your skin so make sure your hands are moist before you use it and wash them immediately after application.
When the foundation/tinted moisturizer is blended into your skin, then apply a concealer as needed. Concealer is used in the inside corner of your eyes from the bridge of the nose following the under eye area and concentrating on the circles or puffiness under the eyes. To prevent puffiness avoid sodium or spicy food as well as excessive alcohol consumption. Avoid using concealer on the outer corner of eye area above the cheek, otherwise it might settle into lines when you are smiling. Make sure to use a shade darker concealer than your skin to prevent from having a Raccoon eye look. Don't cake the concealer on facial marks; just gently apply it on those areas without a lot's of pressure, if you rub too much it will remove the concealer (I use Secret Camouflage by Laura Mercier on Joan). Blend it gently with clean finger around the spot you want to conceal. Again, make sure to blend it by dabbing and rolling and not smearing.
As to what other areas on your face you should use concealer besides the eye area -- look at yourself in front of a big mirror and wherever you see shadows on your face, created by indentations or curves of your face -- apply concealer in these areas in order to brighten them, giving a flawless appearance to your complexion (around nose, lips, between eyebrows and under the eye lashes). For brightening use try Touche Eclat by YSL.
Now it is time to apply a cream blush (I use one by Stila on Joan) on the upper part of cheek apple following the line of cheekbone all the way to the hairline. To find the cheek apple, smile and don't be afraid to apply it near the nose area. Make sure to dab it in -- not smear -- and use a clean finger for blending.
Follow up after the cream blush by applying a powder blush (I use Nar’s Orgasm) in light circular movements. Hold the blush brush towards the end of the handle allowing your wrist to move more fluid and without a lot of pressure. Invest in a good blush brush with natural hair like Blue Squirrel and make sure to wash it once at least once a month with gentle shampoo (Johnson's Baby Shampoo) or alcohol base makeup brush cleaner (try Trish McEvoy).
Now you want to set your make-up. Use a translucent pressed or loose powder (Try Laura Mercier) on a T zone area (forehead, bridge and the side of nose, around lips and chin). Use a bronzer (Try Benefit ‘s Hoola) for defining the contour of your face (under jaw line and on the jaw, under the cheek bone, the outskirts of your face and the lightly over your nose).
Curl your eyelashes with an eyelash curler (I like one by Shu Uemura). Be gentle and make sure not to pull it away from your eye too hard or it will make your eyelashes fall out. Make sure to angle it towards the outside and inside corner allowing the eyelash curler to curl corner eye lashes from the roots.
I always apply waterproof mascara when doing Joan’s make-up so I can be confident that t will never run (most make-up artists rely on Maybelline Waterproof Mascara in "Very Black"). Concentrate on the roots of your eyelashes making sure it's on the skin between the eyelashes. This will help your eyes to pop, creating the contrast against the cornea in the eyes. Finish by pulling the mascara through to the ends and also concentrating on your tips to give your eyes fullness.
We are ready now for eye shadow. Apply an eye base primer (I use one by Laura Mercier) all over your lids to camouflage the darkness and start with an even palatte. If you don't have darkness, you can also use a cream eye shadow (try Benefit creaseless cream eye shadow), concentrating next to your eyelashes. If you had smeared any mascara on your eyelid while applying mascara at the roots, use the cream eye shadow to clean it. The moisture from cream eye shadow will help the mascara to blend in with the eye shadow. Use your finger to blend the edges of your eye shadow so you don’t see an abrupt line. To apply a cream eye shadow use a nylon brush.
For Joan's eyes I add the powder eye shadow (Laura Mercier "Margaux") on the outside corner above the eye crease and under the eyelashes. It opens her eyes out and gives them more definition by adding eyeliner (le Métier de Beaute - Precision Liquid Eyeliner Black) above the eyelashes.
Finally add a stain (Try Tart "Nectar") on the lips, for this won’t disappear every time you lick your lips. For more color add more layers of a lip stain. Continue with a lip primer (Sephora makes a nice one) and then light shear lipstick or lip-gloss.
◊ Stay away from frost lipsticks, frosted lip-glosses and frosted eye shadows.
◊ When using shimmer powders avoid T zone area because it tends to stick out and you will look overly shiny
◊ To avoid a smeared look I like to use Andrea pre dipped wands to clean up, especially around the eyes after
applying mascara. Clean makeup is attractive makeup.
◊ Always make sure your eyebrows are groomed to perfection without looking over plucked. Just follow your
natural shape and use small correction to give yourself more lift by arching your eyebrows. Avoid waxing your
eyebrows; over time it will speed up elasticity of your skin.
Source: Emir Pehilj, firstname.lastname@example.org